Sabeel (Communion and lunch); afternoon in Bethlehem (7/29)

Today we met with a group called Sabeel, which is Arabic for "the way or the path" and also "a spring of water". Sabeel is the Center for Palestinian Liberation Theology and it is "ecumenical" or "nothing is done denominationally," but more precisely it seems to be interfaith as they are comprised of and work with other faiths as well. There three areas of ministry include: 1.) Building up the body of Christ, 2.) Interfaith ministry (Christians and Muslims), and 3.) Peace and Justice.

For Sabeel the starting point is justice - that is where they start and what they aim for. And it is their hope that after justice there will be reconciliation.

I feel that they have these two in the reverse order and was also concerned by their hermeneutic which was a little sketchy and unorthodox.

An interesting stat we were given is that less than 2% of Palestinians in Israel and the West Bank are Christian. However, there is a large number of Palestinian Christians outside of this area. Many have left for economic reasons and some have left due to the poor conditions that exist under occupation.

After the presentation we shared communion and had lunch. All of Sabeel's staff was extremely kind and hospitable. The meal was delicious; (cold) peas and rice with chicken, bread with Zatar, and fresh yogurt. For dessert they served us a cake like brownie with bits of caramel in it and some Turkish coffee.

We had the afternoon to explore in Bethlehem and so I took some pictures of a playground that sits in the shadow of the separation wall. It was a sad reminder of how deeply the impact of this conflict strikes. It seems we are most saddened when the innocence of children is stripped away by the unnecessary evils of this world. It is my deepest hope that we can all work together to strive towards the peace and reconciliation that can only be known through Christ's love.

Caesarea (and swimming in the Mediterranean), Jaffa and Tel Aviv (7/28)

This morning we ventured out for a new adventure as we headed to the northwest to visit Caesarea and the Mediterranean. It is the first day we have had with clouds that hung around for the whole day. Nice fluffy white cotton ball clouds that drifted slowly through the brilliantly blue sky. We arrived at the Mediterranean at around 10 am, and I was astonished (as I always am) at the sight of the ocean; its beauty, mystery, and its ceaseless chorus crashing against the rocks and shoreline have always stirred my soul.*

Along the shoreline runs an old aqueduct dating back to the Romans. The graceful arches and enduring strength and durability are a marvel to behold. I snap a few pictures of the brown stone legacy as well as the blue green waves too old for memories and then run to the water's edge to cool off. I feel invigorated and refreshed as the warm wet waves wash over me. The sand swirls around my toes and ankles as I venture deeper into the blue. Less than 75 feet from shore the waves surge and tumble in a roaring white crescendo against the rocks just below the surface. The shimmering white and deep blue clash in perfect splendor.

After a few hours swimming, collecting shells, and exploring the beach and aqueduct we leave for the excavated city of Caesarea. I am amazed at the size and grandeur of this once thriving port city. We walk along its shoreline complete with remnants of pillars, buildings, archways, streets, and temples. Its wall is like a fortress. As we travel along its extensive interior we make our way to the ancient theater. This theater easily seats several thousand people and has been restored and is in the process of being prepped for an upcoming concert. I am impressed at the ingenuity and ability of those long ago who constructed such amazing feats whose beauty and mystery still inspire to this day.

Next we traveled south to Jaffa passing through Tel Aviv on our way. The modern city on our left - pristine, yet crowded beaches to our right. The sun is slung low in the sky, yet the horizon runs far away - holding the sunset off for a few more hours. In Jaffa we stop to see from a distance where Simon Peter received the vision from the Lord that all food is clean and acceptable to eat (Acts 10:9-16) and then we visited St. Peter's Church.

Yet another filled day, but one of mystery, amazement, and joy.


*The following quote captures well the unyielding call of the sea.

"And it is said by the Eldar that in water there lives yet the echo of the Music of the Ainur more than in any substance else that is in this Earth; and many of the Children of Iluvatar hearken still unsated to the voices of the Sea, and yet know not for what they listen."
- The Silmarillion by J.R.R. Tolkien (page 8).

Beer Sheba National Park, Mizpe Ramon (Negev Desert), Bethlehem Bible College (7/27)

Today we traveled to the Negev Desert to see the geological wonder, Mizpe Ramon. On our way we stopped to see the ruins of Beer Sheba (Genesis 26:23-25). I was very impressed at this former city located next to a well. We were able to walk through the old stone gates which had double walls so that if the first was breached that the inhabitants could still defend the city. Beer Sheba was located on a hill which allowed good visibility in all directions. There was good city planning in its layout, especially in regards to its water system which was a great strength during times of war. It even had a secret escape tunnel which we were able to walk through. Pretty neat to experience a real piece of history.

After our brief excursion we loaded back into our vehicle and resumed our journey to the desert. It was a long journey (several hours) with little to see out of our window other than the endless hills and peaks of the Israeli wilderness, void of life and vegetation. Occasionally, we would see some weeds or bushes tucked in amongst the rocks and gravel, but it looked to be a bleak and ominous country.

Finally we reached our destination - Mizpe Ramon. A geological formation one could never hope to capture with the lens (I suggest that you google it). It was quite the sight and I wished we could have had the opportunity to do some hiking and exploring as well. A herd of Ibex wandered by near to where we were standing, so we took some up-close pictures.

Then began the arduous journey back to Bethlehem... (riding in a car for 3 or 4 hours is not easy for me to do). Once we arrived at Bethlehem we stopped at Bethlehem Bible College for a presentation about some of Israel's history and the West Bank along with how that has impacted the lives of Palestinian Christians. It was a fascinating presentation which opened my eyes to many of the struggles the people in this land have endured. I think it would be amazing to spend a semester continuing my Seminary studies as a student at Bethlehem Bible College!

Worn and weary we returned for our nightly meal and much needed rest. After a full stomach, cool cleansing shower and a few emails, I drifted off to sleep content and hopeful - inspired by God's handiwork and His promises for the future.

Jerusalem: Wailing Wall and other sites (7/26)

Today we traveled to Jerusalem and stopped outside the city walls to visit where Jesus was imprisoned by the Chief Priests and where Peter denied knowing Him three times. We were able to view the prison caves and the pit (know as the 'sacred pit') into which they cast Christ. We read Psalm 87 together (if you have a moment, I would recommend reading it) and then the lights were turned off and we spent a few moments in silence in the deep dark innards of the earth. It is hard to imagine the depth of isolation Jesus experienced that night, knowing that outside one of His closest friends was denying even knowing Him.

Next we traveled into the city where they recently excavated the old city wall on our way to visit the Wailing Wall. The Wailing Wall's size is staggering; the stones are massive and the wall (which is actually the foundation and support structure for the Temple Mount) actually extends 100' below the current level where Jews gather to pray. It is such an impressive structure, especially considering how long ago it was built.

After spending sometime at the Wall, we went up to the Temple Mount and saw the Dome of the Rock Mosque. If I thought the Wailing Wall was impressive, I lack words to describe the Temple Mount. The sheer size of the platform is bind numbing especially considering all of the rocks that lay beneath it creating its support and structure. After walking around for a bit we stopped at the Lion's gate of Jerusalem (where Stephen was stoned) and then headed back to Bethlehem for the evening.

It was a full day, which left me contemplating all the Christ endured for us and how we react to the blessed gift.

Women in Black and a street conversation (7/30)

Today we moved from Bethlehem to Jerusalem and are staying at the Lutheran Guest House close to the Jaffa Gate.

We met a group, Women in Black, who protest the occupation every Friday by wearing black and silently holding up signs on a busy street corner. While I was watching I met a girl named Sara who was from Washington State and was on a similar pilgrimage as we are on. We swapped some names of the really good speakers we have heard and talked briefly.

There was a young couple who was protesting the protesters and I spoke with them when we were leaving. I simply asked if he was pro-occupation or just pro-Israel. He responded that "there is no occupation!" I asked, "Then what are the walls about?" He said that they were for they're protection [from terrorists].

A very interesting view and I was so happy to finally hear from someone who had an Israeli perspective. What I was hoping would be a friendly dialogue quickly vanished as others in the group came to talk with him as well. It instantaneously ended when people began to antagonize him, throwing out "facts" and challenges. He began to defensively defend his view and it began to get heated and voices began to rise as tension flooded the conversation. I tried to redirect and bring the conversation back around to open dialogue and respectful interactions. I was shocked and disappointed at some of the members of the group who acted so disrespectfully. Not once has anyone dared to interrupt a speaker, correct them when they have told a half-truth or even an outright lie, or shied away from difficult questions or topics. As true peace makers, shalom builders we need to openly and respectfully listen to both sides/perspectives first before we can bridge the gaps. Not engage others in hostile conversations and rhetoric bent with our own objectives or political slant.

As Christians if we are no different than those around us, if we have lost our saltiness and our light has gone out - what value can we hope to add to the situation - what peace do we offer if we don't bring Christ (the Prince of Peace)?

Day off (7/24)

Today was quite relaxing despite our early morning. We had to check out of our hotel by 8:00am and carry our bags the equivalent of roughly 1 and 1/2 blocks to the ICB (International Center of Bethlehem) where we are staying in their guest house. The narrow streets were already crowded with the Saturday market traffic, but we made it just fine. WE then had breakfast (a lazy one with lots of conversation). A friend we have made in the market took us to an Olive wood carving factory. It was neat to see where the things were/are carved. After lunch I spent sometime corresponding with friends and family through email.
Dinner was a pleasant surprise - hamburgers and fries! I am sad to admit how happy I was to see them and at how quickly I devoured them as well. For dessert we ate a watermelon we had purchased at the market and the rest of Aaron's (one of our team members) chocolate mousse birthday cake. Cake was delicious, again. The watermelon had a slightly different taste than in the US; sweet, but not sugary.

From Jericho to the Dead Sea (7/23)

Another bright and sunny day beats down upon us as we walk to our tour bus at 9:00am. It is warm and beads of sweat begin to form along my brow. The knowledge that it is only going to get hotter offers no comfort. Fortunately, the air is cool inside our vehicle and I quickly take a window seat.

The journey to Jericho takes us through the wilderness we so often hear about in the Bible. We stop near the Wadi Qilt (a valley that lies between Jerusalem and the route to Nazareth. It is some of the remotest and desolate land I have ever seen. I shudder at the thought of crossing it and suddenly the accounts of "the good Samaritan" and the fear that grip Mary and Joseph when they realize that Jesus is missing (when He stayed behind at the temple), have a new deeper meaning to me.

After a few photos we resume our trip to Jericho, pausing momentarily outside the city (which lies on the opposite side of the mountains that create the Wadi Qilt) to view a tree similar to what Zacchaeus probably climbed in order to view Jesus coming along the street way. It had a beautifully gnarled tree trunk, squat and bulky. Its bark had a very light shade of grey and it was hardly taller than a one story building.

Jericho was hot! Open to the sun just below the mountain range in a fertile valley responsible for a diverse mixture of crops; bananas being one of Jericho's chief exports. The excavation of old Jericho was interesting; some remnants of old stone walls, areas where rain "melted" the clay stone wall like bars of chocolate, and old pottery, rooms, and stairways. We also took a few pictures of the Monastery of Temptation (where Christ was tempted for 40 days) located on the side of the mountain behind Jericho.




Next we headed south to Qumran (where a community of Jews lived and where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found - in the cave of the picture). We had an excellent tour of historical park and the excavations of their communal buildings and purification baths (Mikva Ot). This is likely a community that John the Baptist visited while wandering in the desert.





Finally, we ended our day at the Dead Sea. The water's high salt content made one more buoyant than normal, however it was a novelty that quickly wore off - especially since the water's salinity felt as though it was burning your skin (some areas more than others). The muddy clay (which is thought to have healing/cosmetic qualities) abundantly located on the bottom was dense and had a distinct smoothness to it. All in all, while in the water my skin felt almost slimy and as far as I know the mud did nothing more than merely coat my skin while making me feel dirty and desperate for a shower. But it was a new experience and a fun memory. It was also nice to have a relaxing afternoon and to reflect on the numerous experiences we have had of late.



Worn and weary from traveling and an afternoon in the sun and water we traveled home, drifting off into light sleep as we motored back along the winding road that had been our days journey.

Hebron (7/22)

As we leave Bethlehem and approach Hebron we drive through sloped valleys of brown and lush green--terraced mosaic of agriculture from fertile land and the presences of aquifers. The drive to Hebron was beautiful, and the city is vibrant and especially joyous since today the Palestinians received their test scores from their final exam. New high school graduates shout from car windows to their friends on the street. Some even sit in the window, hanging out of the cars in front of us as we crawl through the early morning traffic. We continue through the crowded streets until we reach old Hebron where there is less traffic and quickly unload from our vehicle. Our guide marches us briskly through a long corridor that leads under a build or buildings (I am not sure which) and we walk past shops on either side of us through what appears to be a dimly lit tunnel.


We pass through tight security which includes a floor to ceiling metal turnstile and then another check point where we have to present our passports and hand over our bags for examination. Once through, we regroup and head to the Al Ibrahimi Mosque and are given a tour of the tomb/memorials of Abraham, Isaac and Rebbecca. Below the Mosque is a network of tunnels and caves that have various burial chambers. It is a beautiful building, but the air is stale - a mixture of incense and mustiness.

After we are done viewing the Mosque, we reverse our route - through the security post again - and are again briskly escorted to the offices of CPT (Christian Peacemaking Team). Here we debriefed on some of the history of Hebron.

At one time Jews and Palestinians lived here peaceably as neighbors. During the late 1920's many Jews left or were forced out of the city. Now, once again Jews (Israelis) and Palestinians are neighbors, but this time they are separated by concrete walls, guard posts, and guns. It is quite sad to see and difficult to process. The women we met from CPT are practically saints - at times putting themselves in between the hostilities that arise between the Israelis and Palestinians. It is a city divided, torn, and stifled by conflict. Seeing the divisions from the roof top of the CPT building gives a more clear picture to the reality these people face everyday than our drive in through the streets had indicated.

I would have like to talk more with the people of Hebron and spent more time in the city, hopefully I will be able to return before the end of our stay.

After lunch we visited a glass factory where we were able to watch two men make hand blown glass goblets. Their speed and precision was amazing. In less than 3 minutes they could make a wine glass by hand that is so precise and exact to the others they make that a company in New York flew all the way out to see and verify that the glasses were being made by hand. Their hospitality was overwhelming and their story touching. The two men who now make the hand blown glass are second generation; the only two of 22 cousins able to wield the trade. Unfortunately this art will die with them, as neither of their children have taken up the torch - too distracted with video games, television, the Internet, etc.

I feel blessed to have met these men and witnessed their art, to have been in the presence of saintly women who place themselves in harms way to protect the despised and mistreated. I visited a city divided by walls, but held together with hope.

Pictures

Layover at the airport in Warsaw, Poland



















Sun rising over Bethlehem 10 minutes after we arrived at our hotel



















First meal in Israel
























Boy in the market
























Fresh fruit in the market




















Playing football in an alley with some of the local kids

Sites, culture, and alley football.

I am quite amazed at just how much I have been able to see and do in such a short amount of time. I have visited the Evangelical Lutheran Christmas Church, and the Church of the Nativity (which stands on top of the cave/stable where Jesus was born). On Monday, we visited the Dar al-Kalima Health and Wellness Center (dedicated to providing needed medical, spiritual, and psychological care for people) and received a tour of the construction on a new expanded school building; Shepherd's Field (where the angels appeared to the shepherds proclaiming the birth of Jesus); the Separation Barrier (roughly an 8-meter-high wall separating parts of Bethlehem); and toured Dheisheh, the oldest refugee camp (62 years) in the West Bank.
Yesterday, we heard a presentation by an Imam on Islamic faith and visited a Mosque. We were received very politely at the Mosque and guided throughout the building - even up the Minaret. The rest of the afternoon we were able to visit the markets, where we were welcomed and treated very hospitably. Often times given tea, coffee, or even gifts as we hosted in their shops. We made an extra special connection at one store and spent several hours talking with the shop keepers. We had purchased a soccer ball a few doors down the way and so a game of football broke out in the alley (at most 10 feet wide) next to their shop with some neighborhood kids. We had to pause our game for a little while when the local Mosque had its call to prayer, which incidentally allowed us to change into more appropriate attire. The second half of the game turned out to be quite the rumpus (or friendly street brawl) - filled with flying shoes, elbows, and bruised shins. It was all good natured fun. We shared laughter, high fives, and pats on the back as we exchanged shouts and ricocheted the ball off the alley walls and each others' feet.
Having spent most (if not all) of our energy, we said goodbye, exchanged handshakes, hugs, and high fives and headed home for dinner. Although we were sore, bruised, and exhausted our souls lifted our spirits from the inside out - bound to our fellow man in love and hope for the future.

Israel 7/17

We arrived in Tel Aviv just after 4:00am local time. Security and customs was a breeze much to my surprise. We picked up our luggage and were shuttled to our hotel in Bethlehem. There was a small heated conversation as we entered the West Bank, but we made it through. Arriving at 5:30am we found our rooms on the top floor and then scurried out onto the roof (I actually climbed through my window) for some sunrise photos. Took a long nap but am forcing myself up to beat jet lag.

21:27 (9:27 pm)- Had a brief tour of the local market and International Center. Dinner (my first meal in Israel) was good - took a picture. May have drank some tap water, but so far feeling fine. Have breakfast and church tomorrow. Should be another nice day. Weather was warm/hot, but there was a steady breeze. Evening cooled off quite a bit and the breeze remains. Stars shine brightly in the night sky only a sliver of the moon hangs near the horizon. The same stars that smiled down upon Jesus 2000 years ago... A very peaceful thought indeed.

I will try to post some pictures soon. Unfortunately, I have less access to the Internet then originally planned. Will update as much as possible. Thank you for the prayers - would love to hear from you.

Mason