Free Day - Church of the Sepulchre, Hezekiah's Tunnel, Kidron Valley and Tombs (7/31)

Hot! The moment I walked out of my room at 7:00am for my daily devotions and prayer, I was hit by a wall of heat. Today is going to be a hot one for sure! Even though it was our day off, I still woke up early with a couple of others to beat the rush at the Holy Sepulchre. It was still a busy place and we had to wait in line a bit. I took some pictures of the rising sun breaking into the room through a lofty window. While waiting in line to visit the place where they believe Christ was buried, I read John 19-20 and found a reflective and grateful heart for the Lord's sacrifice, example, and salvation which He extended to me [and all of mankind].

(On an humorous side note, I found it ironic that in a place designed to commemorate and honor the Man who most truly exhibited what it means to deny oneself and put others before you, would also be a place where many would come to pay their respects and at the same time cut in line to put themselves in front of/before others.)

We had lunch in the market and a few of us set out to find Hezekiah's Tunnel. It was closed for the Sabbath, but we were still able to walk around some. We ventured up the Kidron Valley and even stopped in some tombs along the way. Trying in part to escape the heat as much as to explore. The heat was oppressive and their was only the faintest of breezes along the valley floor. The heat seemed to radiate from all sides as the sun's glare reflected from the steep walls and even from the ground we walked on. I sweat my shirt completely through and was thankful that I was wearing shorts for once. We returned to the guest house for cold showers and water.

After my shower I read some until dinner and spent the rest of the evening emailing, catching up on my journal, and reading.

Travel to Nazareth, Bet-She'an, The Orthodox Church of Annunciation and Mary's Well (8/2)

Today we say goodbye to Old Jerusalem and turn north for our journey to Nazareth. It is a several hour journey by car which I try to pass by reading and enjoying the scenery that rolls past my window.

Along the way we break up our trek with a stop at Bet-She’an. It is a stunning sight to behold. The remnants of an ancient city unearthed, leaving much of it’s former glory to view, touch, and explore. Streets, pillared platforms, and the most preserved ancient theater in all of Israel were mine to explore. As I walked through the tunneled passageway, volcanic stone streets, past marble pillars carved with intricate and detailed craftsmanship I pause to marvel at the skill, dedication, and amount of labor such an undertaking must have required.

Despite the oppressive heat that is well established deep into the 100’s I decide to climb the mount for a better view of this spectacular city. It is humid and hazy, likely due to the nearby Jordan River valley. The heat presses in from all sides, and though it makes me feel lethargic, listless, weary – I am no less impressed and moved by the sights I behold from on high. It quickly becomes clear why this area was so important and valuable within the region as I survey the lands below in all directions.

Completely drained we load back into our vehicle after a quick stop for lunch and resume our quest to reach Nazareth. I am surprised at how developed and modern Nazareth is – I think I was expecting a city more similar to Bethlehem in nature. Before we make our way to our lodging for the night we stop to view Mary’s well located inside the Orthodox Church of the Annunciation. It is a beautiful little church that has a chambered grotto where a tiny well bubbles up – supposedly where Mary (Jesus mother) use to collect water.

Once we checked in to our hotel we enjoyed a delicious (and if I might say, well deserved) dinner. Although I was completely exhausted from the heat and day’s activities – I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to play some football (soccer) with some kids that lived nearby. We played four on four and they quickly took the lead with a 4-1 start. We rallied back and were able to win the game by a margin of 3 goals as the twilight hour robbed us of further play. The kids were pretty skilled and athletic players. They asked to play again tomorrow so we told them to meet us at 7:30pm. Ripe with the glory of our victory and the rank odor that was its cost we headed back to our rooms for showers and the peace that comes of well-earned sleep.

Yad Vasham (Holocaust Museum) (8/1): WARNING DISTURBING IMAGE

[See Previous Entry On Yad Vasham]

Went to the Holocaust museum today. It was appalling to the point of nausea - I had to go to the bathroom where I had some dry heaves. I felt a dark shadow on my shoulders and my soul felt the chill of death, hate, and sin - I had trouble grasping that man could do such evil and was shocked at how many countries joined in and assisted the Nazis in trying to exterminate the Jewish race.

I attached a picture that haunts me - humanity at its finest and at its worst in one click of the camera and one click of a gun.

It is now more clear than ever to me that we can not look to man, or secular systems - it is only in Christ that there is hope for mankind.

Sabeel (Communion and lunch); afternoon in Bethlehem (7/29)

Today we met with a group called Sabeel, which is Arabic for "the way or the path" and also "a spring of water". Sabeel is the Center for Palestinian Liberation Theology and it is "ecumenical" or "nothing is done denominationally," but more precisely it seems to be interfaith as they are comprised of and work with other faiths as well. There three areas of ministry include: 1.) Building up the body of Christ, 2.) Interfaith ministry (Christians and Muslims), and 3.) Peace and Justice.

For Sabeel the starting point is justice - that is where they start and what they aim for. And it is their hope that after justice there will be reconciliation.

I feel that they have these two in the reverse order and was also concerned by their hermeneutic which was a little sketchy and unorthodox.

An interesting stat we were given is that less than 2% of Palestinians in Israel and the West Bank are Christian. However, there is a large number of Palestinian Christians outside of this area. Many have left for economic reasons and some have left due to the poor conditions that exist under occupation.

After the presentation we shared communion and had lunch. All of Sabeel's staff was extremely kind and hospitable. The meal was delicious; (cold) peas and rice with chicken, bread with Zatar, and fresh yogurt. For dessert they served us a cake like brownie with bits of caramel in it and some Turkish coffee.

We had the afternoon to explore in Bethlehem and so I took some pictures of a playground that sits in the shadow of the separation wall. It was a sad reminder of how deeply the impact of this conflict strikes. It seems we are most saddened when the innocence of children is stripped away by the unnecessary evils of this world. It is my deepest hope that we can all work together to strive towards the peace and reconciliation that can only be known through Christ's love.

Caesarea (and swimming in the Mediterranean), Jaffa and Tel Aviv (7/28)

This morning we ventured out for a new adventure as we headed to the northwest to visit Caesarea and the Mediterranean. It is the first day we have had with clouds that hung around for the whole day. Nice fluffy white cotton ball clouds that drifted slowly through the brilliantly blue sky. We arrived at the Mediterranean at around 10 am, and I was astonished (as I always am) at the sight of the ocean; its beauty, mystery, and its ceaseless chorus crashing against the rocks and shoreline have always stirred my soul.*

Along the shoreline runs an old aqueduct dating back to the Romans. The graceful arches and enduring strength and durability are a marvel to behold. I snap a few pictures of the brown stone legacy as well as the blue green waves too old for memories and then run to the water's edge to cool off. I feel invigorated and refreshed as the warm wet waves wash over me. The sand swirls around my toes and ankles as I venture deeper into the blue. Less than 75 feet from shore the waves surge and tumble in a roaring white crescendo against the rocks just below the surface. The shimmering white and deep blue clash in perfect splendor.

After a few hours swimming, collecting shells, and exploring the beach and aqueduct we leave for the excavated city of Caesarea. I am amazed at the size and grandeur of this once thriving port city. We walk along its shoreline complete with remnants of pillars, buildings, archways, streets, and temples. Its wall is like a fortress. As we travel along its extensive interior we make our way to the ancient theater. This theater easily seats several thousand people and has been restored and is in the process of being prepped for an upcoming concert. I am impressed at the ingenuity and ability of those long ago who constructed such amazing feats whose beauty and mystery still inspire to this day.

Next we traveled south to Jaffa passing through Tel Aviv on our way. The modern city on our left - pristine, yet crowded beaches to our right. The sun is slung low in the sky, yet the horizon runs far away - holding the sunset off for a few more hours. In Jaffa we stop to see from a distance where Simon Peter received the vision from the Lord that all food is clean and acceptable to eat (Acts 10:9-16) and then we visited St. Peter's Church.

Yet another filled day, but one of mystery, amazement, and joy.


*The following quote captures well the unyielding call of the sea.

"And it is said by the Eldar that in water there lives yet the echo of the Music of the Ainur more than in any substance else that is in this Earth; and many of the Children of Iluvatar hearken still unsated to the voices of the Sea, and yet know not for what they listen."
- The Silmarillion by J.R.R. Tolkien (page 8).

Beer Sheba National Park, Mizpe Ramon (Negev Desert), Bethlehem Bible College (7/27)

Today we traveled to the Negev Desert to see the geological wonder, Mizpe Ramon. On our way we stopped to see the ruins of Beer Sheba (Genesis 26:23-25). I was very impressed at this former city located next to a well. We were able to walk through the old stone gates which had double walls so that if the first was breached that the inhabitants could still defend the city. Beer Sheba was located on a hill which allowed good visibility in all directions. There was good city planning in its layout, especially in regards to its water system which was a great strength during times of war. It even had a secret escape tunnel which we were able to walk through. Pretty neat to experience a real piece of history.

After our brief excursion we loaded back into our vehicle and resumed our journey to the desert. It was a long journey (several hours) with little to see out of our window other than the endless hills and peaks of the Israeli wilderness, void of life and vegetation. Occasionally, we would see some weeds or bushes tucked in amongst the rocks and gravel, but it looked to be a bleak and ominous country.

Finally we reached our destination - Mizpe Ramon. A geological formation one could never hope to capture with the lens (I suggest that you google it). It was quite the sight and I wished we could have had the opportunity to do some hiking and exploring as well. A herd of Ibex wandered by near to where we were standing, so we took some up-close pictures.

Then began the arduous journey back to Bethlehem... (riding in a car for 3 or 4 hours is not easy for me to do). Once we arrived at Bethlehem we stopped at Bethlehem Bible College for a presentation about some of Israel's history and the West Bank along with how that has impacted the lives of Palestinian Christians. It was a fascinating presentation which opened my eyes to many of the struggles the people in this land have endured. I think it would be amazing to spend a semester continuing my Seminary studies as a student at Bethlehem Bible College!

Worn and weary we returned for our nightly meal and much needed rest. After a full stomach, cool cleansing shower and a few emails, I drifted off to sleep content and hopeful - inspired by God's handiwork and His promises for the future.

Jerusalem: Wailing Wall and other sites (7/26)

Today we traveled to Jerusalem and stopped outside the city walls to visit where Jesus was imprisoned by the Chief Priests and where Peter denied knowing Him three times. We were able to view the prison caves and the pit (know as the 'sacred pit') into which they cast Christ. We read Psalm 87 together (if you have a moment, I would recommend reading it) and then the lights were turned off and we spent a few moments in silence in the deep dark innards of the earth. It is hard to imagine the depth of isolation Jesus experienced that night, knowing that outside one of His closest friends was denying even knowing Him.

Next we traveled into the city where they recently excavated the old city wall on our way to visit the Wailing Wall. The Wailing Wall's size is staggering; the stones are massive and the wall (which is actually the foundation and support structure for the Temple Mount) actually extends 100' below the current level where Jews gather to pray. It is such an impressive structure, especially considering how long ago it was built.

After spending sometime at the Wall, we went up to the Temple Mount and saw the Dome of the Rock Mosque. If I thought the Wailing Wall was impressive, I lack words to describe the Temple Mount. The sheer size of the platform is bind numbing especially considering all of the rocks that lay beneath it creating its support and structure. After walking around for a bit we stopped at the Lion's gate of Jerusalem (where Stephen was stoned) and then headed back to Bethlehem for the evening.

It was a full day, which left me contemplating all the Christ endured for us and how we react to the blessed gift.