Hebron (7/22)

As we leave Bethlehem and approach Hebron we drive through sloped valleys of brown and lush green--terraced mosaic of agriculture from fertile land and the presences of aquifers. The drive to Hebron was beautiful, and the city is vibrant and especially joyous since today the Palestinians received their test scores from their final exam. New high school graduates shout from car windows to their friends on the street. Some even sit in the window, hanging out of the cars in front of us as we crawl through the early morning traffic. We continue through the crowded streets until we reach old Hebron where there is less traffic and quickly unload from our vehicle. Our guide marches us briskly through a long corridor that leads under a build or buildings (I am not sure which) and we walk past shops on either side of us through what appears to be a dimly lit tunnel.


We pass through tight security which includes a floor to ceiling metal turnstile and then another check point where we have to present our passports and hand over our bags for examination. Once through, we regroup and head to the Al Ibrahimi Mosque and are given a tour of the tomb/memorials of Abraham, Isaac and Rebbecca. Below the Mosque is a network of tunnels and caves that have various burial chambers. It is a beautiful building, but the air is stale - a mixture of incense and mustiness.

After we are done viewing the Mosque, we reverse our route - through the security post again - and are again briskly escorted to the offices of CPT (Christian Peacemaking Team). Here we debriefed on some of the history of Hebron.

At one time Jews and Palestinians lived here peaceably as neighbors. During the late 1920's many Jews left or were forced out of the city. Now, once again Jews (Israelis) and Palestinians are neighbors, but this time they are separated by concrete walls, guard posts, and guns. It is quite sad to see and difficult to process. The women we met from CPT are practically saints - at times putting themselves in between the hostilities that arise between the Israelis and Palestinians. It is a city divided, torn, and stifled by conflict. Seeing the divisions from the roof top of the CPT building gives a more clear picture to the reality these people face everyday than our drive in through the streets had indicated.

I would have like to talk more with the people of Hebron and spent more time in the city, hopefully I will be able to return before the end of our stay.

After lunch we visited a glass factory where we were able to watch two men make hand blown glass goblets. Their speed and precision was amazing. In less than 3 minutes they could make a wine glass by hand that is so precise and exact to the others they make that a company in New York flew all the way out to see and verify that the glasses were being made by hand. Their hospitality was overwhelming and their story touching. The two men who now make the hand blown glass are second generation; the only two of 22 cousins able to wield the trade. Unfortunately this art will die with them, as neither of their children have taken up the torch - too distracted with video games, television, the Internet, etc.

I feel blessed to have met these men and witnessed their art, to have been in the presence of saintly women who place themselves in harms way to protect the despised and mistreated. I visited a city divided by walls, but held together with hope.