(8/15) Diffiicult Day in the West Bank

Today was a difficult day to say the least. Today I witnessed occupation up close and personal; seeing families enclosed and caged by metal fencing with razor wire, having cement walls built within meters of their home - tearing through what use to be their backyard, their grand children's playground, their grove of 2000 year old olive trees. Hope is as thin as the razors wrapped around their homes and wavers like a leaf in a faint breeze.



I do not have the words to describe all that I saw and hope that my pictures will scream where my soul has lost its voice from strain and grief.
































While I am grieved at what I faced today, a hope not from me continues to bubble up from within. This issue is larger than one can presume to fathom, larger than what anyone person could tackle. For now I simply ask God to give me one task, one thing that I can do out of obedience to Him that will bring glory to Him in this place and show His love to the people here.

Hebron: Part II (7/22)

Please Read Hebron (7/22) First Before Reading This Post To Have The Full Context Of The Story.

When we were walking in the market in Bethlehem that afternoon/evening, a handful of boys burst into the road in front of us. It appeared that a young boy (14-16 years old) was chasing three boys (ages 10-12 years old). The first two young boys seemed to get away, but the third was dropped to the ground by a well-placed knee to his mid-thigh by the older boy. All of this happened right in front of me. The older boy placed his foot upon the younger boy’s neck and face pinning him to the ground. What had transpired to “merit” such treatment I am not sure, but somewhere amidst the shouts, clamor, physical altercation, and the expression on the little boy’s face as he was pinned to the stone street by a boot heel questions from deep within began to rise. While I could not understand the words, the expression of the older boy’s face combined with the harsh tone and words dripping with disdain contrasted sharply with the clearly humiliated tone of the young boy pleading desperately, his face riddled with pain and fear. Deep questions surfaced from within about the very nature of man and his capacity for humanity. Two brothers warring within a war. So far I do not see a land in desperate need of liberation from occupation, but in desperate need of Christ and His salvation. For this is not a land of people who are simply held captive by a wall of separation, but are prisoners of death, enslaved by sin. Likewise for those occupying forces.

But still I tell you that I have hope – not in man, government, or policies – But in Christ Jesus our Lord.

Elias Chacour, Bahai Gardens, Mount of Transfiguration (Mt. Tabor) (8/3)

Today we had the privilege to hear Elias Chacour speak. While I really enjoyed some of the themes and language about forgiveness that he used in his book Blood Brothers, I was not convinced that he shared the same message in person. I was encouraged by his challenge to never become one-sided; he also said, "I will never encourage you to tear down the wall, but to build bridges over the wall so that it disappears." He also stated that, "[The Jews and Palestinians] do not need to learn how to live together, but they need to remember how they lived together [previously in peace]." He was a very gracious and hospitable host and his style of sharing with us was largely narrative in nature, making the connection between what he said and what he meant slightly more challenging. Still it was nice to meet him and hear from someone who has been living in this land and serving its people for so many years.

It was another brutally hot day, yet we put on smiles and are embracing the adventure. We traveled up Mt Carmel that over looks the Bahai Gardens and the harbor of Haifa. The harbor is impressive in size and watching the massive container-ships that filled the port and surrounding seaside was exciting. The Bahai Gardens were of a magnitude that I have not seen matched. They extend well down the mountain side, although we were only able to walk through the first two levels. The beauty was stirring and I have included a few pictures that perhaps capture the regal elegance better than my words.

After the gardens while we were having lunch (which for me was a delicious chocolate croissant), we saw on the news that some gunfire had been exchanged between the Israeli military and the Lebanese military. Being less than 22 miles from the border this was fairly disconcerting. The details were unclear as our ability to communicate in Hebrew is close to zero and we able to discern little from the store owner's broken English.

Fortunately, it didn't seem like it was escalating into anything major and I felt for the most part safe and secure. We then traveled up to the Mt. of Transfiguration (Mt. Tabor) where we were able to take some pictures and see some views that overlook a large agriculturally rich valley that lay below. It was inspiring to be where Christ had been; I think this place had special significance for me since I have written a sermon on The Transfiguration. The idea that Jesus teaches us that He did not come to change/fix the problems of the world in the way we think He should, but instead invites us to travel down the mountain, carrying our cross and following Him in obedience - even to death is as challenging to us as it was to Peter. However, the promise of the text is that Christ is with us. He walked before us and He walks alongside of us now. All that is left is that we daily pick up our cross and follow Him.

While we were there several fighter jets flew overhead adding to our curiosity about the current situation between Israel and Lebanon.

Back at the hotel we had some breaded chicken, french fries, and watermelon, another game of football with the neighborhood boys and then some down time. There was a bit of drama with our guide as we were trying to find one of our team members, and unfortunately the situation escalated to ridiculous proportions. It was quite surprising, disappointing, and frankly shocking. Why he reacted in such an extreme matter was not clear and seems to me that there may be something deeper at the root of the issue. I was quite amazed at his lack of concern for a fellow human, and irrational anger and inappropriate language. Ultimately, this led to us getting a new guide in the morning (after an attempt by our leader to reconcile the situation). Ci la vi.

B'Tselem, Yad Vasham (Holocaust Museum), Israel Museum, Knesset (8/1)

Hot and hazy. Today we spoke with an Israeli organization, B'Tselem, whose sees its role primarily as a civil organization to monitor government activity and raise awareness about human rights as an issue in the occupied territories. Their view is that they cannot change the situation, but that they can at least document it. They post all their reports online and hope to raise awareness (they recommended reading their report on the West Bank which outlines how Israel uses Jordanian law to confiscate land).

Three years ago they started a video project which they began by giving video cameras to Palestinians (in Hebron) so that they could document what is going on in the area. There are now over 100 cameras in West Bank and Gaza. They train them how to keep the camera steady, even in the midst of the conflict and to not get involved, but to document - even if the conflict involves family members.

After the presentation I was able to ask if they also documented Palestinian aggression against Israelis - which they do. In my opinion it gives more credibility to the organization and is a better way to collect information and address the larger conflict at hand.

After hearing from B'Tselem, we went to the Yad Vasham. I have written a separate blog about my experience there and so I will only enter here a quote that stood out to me and spoke volumes about how we view (or should view) others in the context of humanity and discrimination (or in the case of the Holocaust - genocide).

"I do not know what a Jew is, we only know what human beings are." - Pastor Andre Trocme (His response to being told that he had to handover Jews to the Nazis).

Visiting the Yad Vasham was an emotionally and physically draining event. I feel that my soul was gravely wounded by the experience.

We then traveled to the Israeli Museum where we saw a model of the city and exhibit on the Dead Sea Scrolls. Next we drove by the Knesset for a quick picture and then headed back to the guest house in Jerusalem.

It was a long and trying day filled with disheartening images, grief, and a broken heart. May God use these things to draw me nearer to Him and to strengthen me for the tasks He calls me to do out of obedience to Him.

Free Day - Church of the Sepulchre, Hezekiah's Tunnel, Kidron Valley and Tombs (7/31)

Hot! The moment I walked out of my room at 7:00am for my daily devotions and prayer, I was hit by a wall of heat. Today is going to be a hot one for sure! Even though it was our day off, I still woke up early with a couple of others to beat the rush at the Holy Sepulchre. It was still a busy place and we had to wait in line a bit. I took some pictures of the rising sun breaking into the room through a lofty window. While waiting in line to visit the place where they believe Christ was buried, I read John 19-20 and found a reflective and grateful heart for the Lord's sacrifice, example, and salvation which He extended to me [and all of mankind].

(On an humorous side note, I found it ironic that in a place designed to commemorate and honor the Man who most truly exhibited what it means to deny oneself and put others before you, would also be a place where many would come to pay their respects and at the same time cut in line to put themselves in front of/before others.)

We had lunch in the market and a few of us set out to find Hezekiah's Tunnel. It was closed for the Sabbath, but we were still able to walk around some. We ventured up the Kidron Valley and even stopped in some tombs along the way. Trying in part to escape the heat as much as to explore. The heat was oppressive and their was only the faintest of breezes along the valley floor. The heat seemed to radiate from all sides as the sun's glare reflected from the steep walls and even from the ground we walked on. I sweat my shirt completely through and was thankful that I was wearing shorts for once. We returned to the guest house for cold showers and water.

After my shower I read some until dinner and spent the rest of the evening emailing, catching up on my journal, and reading.

Travel to Nazareth, Bet-She'an, The Orthodox Church of Annunciation and Mary's Well (8/2)

Today we say goodbye to Old Jerusalem and turn north for our journey to Nazareth. It is a several hour journey by car which I try to pass by reading and enjoying the scenery that rolls past my window.

Along the way we break up our trek with a stop at Bet-She’an. It is a stunning sight to behold. The remnants of an ancient city unearthed, leaving much of it’s former glory to view, touch, and explore. Streets, pillared platforms, and the most preserved ancient theater in all of Israel were mine to explore. As I walked through the tunneled passageway, volcanic stone streets, past marble pillars carved with intricate and detailed craftsmanship I pause to marvel at the skill, dedication, and amount of labor such an undertaking must have required.

Despite the oppressive heat that is well established deep into the 100’s I decide to climb the mount for a better view of this spectacular city. It is humid and hazy, likely due to the nearby Jordan River valley. The heat presses in from all sides, and though it makes me feel lethargic, listless, weary – I am no less impressed and moved by the sights I behold from on high. It quickly becomes clear why this area was so important and valuable within the region as I survey the lands below in all directions.

Completely drained we load back into our vehicle after a quick stop for lunch and resume our quest to reach Nazareth. I am surprised at how developed and modern Nazareth is – I think I was expecting a city more similar to Bethlehem in nature. Before we make our way to our lodging for the night we stop to view Mary’s well located inside the Orthodox Church of the Annunciation. It is a beautiful little church that has a chambered grotto where a tiny well bubbles up – supposedly where Mary (Jesus mother) use to collect water.

Once we checked in to our hotel we enjoyed a delicious (and if I might say, well deserved) dinner. Although I was completely exhausted from the heat and day’s activities – I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to play some football (soccer) with some kids that lived nearby. We played four on four and they quickly took the lead with a 4-1 start. We rallied back and were able to win the game by a margin of 3 goals as the twilight hour robbed us of further play. The kids were pretty skilled and athletic players. They asked to play again tomorrow so we told them to meet us at 7:30pm. Ripe with the glory of our victory and the rank odor that was its cost we headed back to our rooms for showers and the peace that comes of well-earned sleep.

Yad Vasham (Holocaust Museum) (8/1): WARNING DISTURBING IMAGE

[See Previous Entry On Yad Vasham]

Went to the Holocaust museum today. It was appalling to the point of nausea - I had to go to the bathroom where I had some dry heaves. I felt a dark shadow on my shoulders and my soul felt the chill of death, hate, and sin - I had trouble grasping that man could do such evil and was shocked at how many countries joined in and assisted the Nazis in trying to exterminate the Jewish race.

I attached a picture that haunts me - humanity at its finest and at its worst in one click of the camera and one click of a gun.

It is now more clear than ever to me that we can not look to man, or secular systems - it is only in Christ that there is hope for mankind.